Stain
can preserve and renew a wooden fence. Follow
these steps to get it right the first time.
Q: I have an older deck and fence that
has grayed out and is somewhat stained.
How can I restore this wood to its original appearance?
A:Redwood, red cedar and other resin-rich wood
species have tannins, which weather to a gray
look. You can remove the tannin from the wood's
surface using our DeckScapes® Revive. The
oxalic acid in this material will remove the damaged
surface, thereby exposing fresh wood. Be sure
to follow all cautionary statements on the label
to avoid damage to nearby plants or personal injury.
Q: Should I use semi-transparent or solid
color stain on my house?
A:To some degree, this may be an aesthetic consideration.
A semi-transparent stain will show wood grain,
while a solid or opaque stain will hide the grain
but still allow the texture of the wood to remain
visible. If the wood is sound and has a nice grain,
it may be a matter of what is more pleasing from
a visual standpoint. However, when wood is aged
(with a potential for uneven wear), excessive
porosity and/or extreme color variances, a solid
or opaque stain will hide these imperfections.
Please note that in some cases areas are damaged
beyond repair. Such wood may be soft and excessively
cracked or cupped. Such wood will not hold the
stain over the long term and may need to be replaced
prior to staining the whole surface.
Q: When working with stain, can the color
of the stain vary from the beginning of the can
compared to the tone nearer the bottom of the
can?
 A:Stains
with less viscosity (such as interior oil stains)
have a thinner consistency. This may cause the
stain pigment to settle out while the can remains
stationary. This could result in varying stain
tones as you work into the bucket. For this reason,
when staining with such products it is important
to stir the material from time to time to ensure
uniformity of the overall tone.
Q: After varnishing with a satin polyurethane
I found that parts were almost completely glossy
while other areas were nearly matte flat. What
caused this and how can I fix it?
A:Satin polyurethane is essentially the same type
of product as gloss, but with a flatting paste
introduced into the material to create the lower
sheen. Unfortunately, because clear urethane products
have very low viscosity, some of the flatting
paste can settle to the bottom of the can.
For this reason, it is important to stir the product
frequently as you work with the can to ensure
greater uniformity of sheen. If a product was
applied with less-than-adequate stirring, the
result will likely be as you described. We recommend
allowing the clear coat to dry fully. Then scuff
sand to uniformly dull the whole surface. Once
this is complete, a final thin coat can be applied
of the satin material. Be sure to stir as indicated
to ensure a final finish that is truly satin throughout.
Q: What should I use to coat my pressure-treated
deck?
 A:The
pressure-treating process soaks wood. When newly
installed, it will not allow coatings to adhere
well. For the most part it is best to allow the
surface to dry, and the time needed can vary.
An easy test is to splash/sprinkle water on the
surface. If the water beads on the surface, more
drying time is needed. If the water droplets soak
into the wood, then the surface can be coated.
The deck should be cleaned at that time, with
one or two days following to permit it to dry.
Once it's dry, coat pressure-treated decks with
DeckScapes Toner or Stain.
Information provided by Sherwin Williams
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Things you’ll need for fence painting and
staining
• Brushes
• Semi transparent oil or latex stain /
oil or solid body oil or latex stain
• Sandpaper
• Tarps
• Garden sprayer or airless paint sprayer
Quick Guide
 Staining
or Painting Your Fence
• Choose your product and stain color
• Be sure the wood is clean and free of
grease. Strip off existing finishes and completely
sand the wood where needed
• Apply the stain with a 4-inch paintbrush
or painting pad, working with the grain, never
across it.
• Use a 2-inch paintbrush to get the stain
into cracks and crevices, between boards and around
hardware.
• Blend the edges of each application to
prevent stripes.
• Work quickly, and don't stop in the middle
of a board to take a break.
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